fast

There is no big mystery and you don't need a particularly expensive or fancy scanner!

1. Buy a "photo" scanner by Epson. For the price Epson scanners produce the most depth of field, have the best color fidelity and the software will allow you to modify the image to a great degree when it is set at the "professional" mode (which you must do manually after installing the software). Psssst! Even a cheap Epson scanner from the Epson clearance center will produce a better result than any other manufacturer. While their cheap printers suck, their scanners are not a big pain in the ass. Also, you don't need all the fancy photo options for reading media cards, scanning 35mm film strips, et al. Those features add to the cost of the scanner- for scanning objects you don't need any of that. Note: an "all-in-one" scanner-printer-copier is OK to use.

2. Install Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0- this software is usually bundled with scanners and printers. If it's not you can use Elements 3.0. 4.0 or any full Photoshop version or any other photo or image editing program that has an "import" option that connects you to your scanner. (In your task bar look for "IMPORT" -a menu will drop down or fly out and you will see the name of your scanner (assuming you've installed the software). Note: I'm recommending Photoshop Elements for the novice or weekend crafter- it's all the editing you'll ever need. Elements 3.0 and up is as complicated as regular Photoshop. You'll need Photoshop only if you intend to produce graphic arts quality images or images combined with complicated text.

3. If you already have a scanner but it isn't an Epson (or other high-end device) and you don't have any image editor you can start out by using the editor in your scanning software. (Which is good enough to get you started.)

4. OPEN YOUR IMAGE EDITOR (for example Photoshop), THEN OPEN THE IMPORT MENU (i.e. any version of Photoshop: File...Import...name of scanner ), after selecting your scanner the software will open.

5. Direct your scanner to operate in non-auto mode often called "professional mode" "manual mode" "advanced mode". If you didn't previously select the mode, the default will be the "auto" settings. While "auto" is OK for documents and perhaps photographs, for objects we need to set all the options manually. Read your manual- carefully this time- if you can't seem to get out of "auto" mode.

6. In "professional" or "manual" mode you will see a lot of options to tinker with. Let's start out by using the following options:

Type of "document" or source: COLOR PHOTO

DPI: 300 (whole page composition) or 600 (for a single flower or object that you want to print larger than life-size)

Target or "output" size: 100%

7. Remove the scanner top and set it aside. Note: do not allow light from any source to inadvertently strike the glass platen. This will cause streaks and blotches in the image background.

8. Arrange your object(s), leaves, flowers or plant specimens face down on the glass platen. Experiment with objects until you get the hang of it before you start scanning yourself, people or pets.

9. Click on PREVIEW. Note: you have NOT captured the image by previewing! The preview is only a test so the arrangement must remain on the glass until you "record" the image by clicking on "scan"!

10. Rearrange the image, follow with a preview until you like the result and want to keep it.

11. You might have to tinker with the value (contrast) controls. Try "auto" contrast or "auto exposure". However, the image may still be too flat (or way to contrasty). The trick is to have a tiny white reference point and the blackest black somewhere in the picture (usually the background). For black use the black eyedropper to select the blackest area and usually the rest of the values will optimize.

But sometimes your tinkering will make the picture look worseI! In that case you will select "auto contrast" until you get the hang of manual adjustments.

12. For now set the unsharp mask option at "off" or "low". Jumping ahead: "sharpening" the image in Photoshop with what is called "high pass sharpening" is more effective than over-sharpening during scanning. Sharpening adds some contrast, which is good, but also increases the appearance of dust motes and artifacts- baaaaad!

13. After recording your scan, close the scanner window. I don't mean minimize the window, I mean close it by clicking on the X box. The image appears in your Photoshop (or photo-editing) window. View the scan at "actual pixel" size, also called "100%". Pretty big huh? Carefully check the image for problem areas- such as globs of over-exposed white areas and out of position objects. Also red streaks and background irregularities. If the exposure is not good, re-scan after adjusting the contrast. If there is too much dust on the glass you must blow it off locally. Remove the objects, then wipe the glass entirely, replacing the objects, if there is a lot of retouching ahead!