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TIPS AND TRICKS
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WIRE DIAGRAM FOR ELECTRONIC IGN. CONVERSION (5 PIN CONTROL BOX)
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Mopar Performance has a conversion kit, but it may be more cost effective to scrounge up the parts. Use a single pickup distributer with vaccuum advance and dual ballast resister. Stock coil should work O.K. Use Good Quality plug wires.
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When converting to electoronic ign., you must have, or convert to, the electronic voltage regulator
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THE BEST WAY TO MAKE THESE CONVERSIONS WITHOUT THE KIT, IS TO USE A WIRE HARNESS FROM A WRECKING YARD. YOU WILL HAVE FEWER SPLICES, AND FEWER PROBLEMS
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WIRE DIAGRAM FOR ELECTRONIC VOLTAGE REGULATOR
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The most common regulartor is the 2 pin, and works with the 2 field terminal alternator. The wire to ign.1 can either go to the ign.switch or to the ign.1 terminal of the ballast resister.
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These tips and tricks are from my own experiance, or just my opinion on the subject after owning Dodges for 35 yrs.
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CAMBER ADJUSTMENT -- W's and D's
So you don't wear the outer edges on wide tires, or any tire. Any good big truck alignment shop should be able to bend the front axle to the desired amount of camber. My W100 was set at close to 0 degrees, and my 12" wide tires wear evenly now.
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DRIVE TRAIN SHAKES AND SHUDDERS
WITH DIVORCED TRANSFER CASE
After living with the shakes and shudders when starting from a stop with my W100 for over 10yrs., I finally found the cure. The chattering would come and go and sometimes be worse than other times. Changeing to an automatic, adding a brace to the transfer case, and using special teflon grease in the drive shaft slip joints didn't help. One day while laying under the truck and scratching my head, I suddenly remembered a section in a Chevy repair manual abuut the phasing of 2 piece drive shafts. With a divorced trans. case, you basically have a 2 piece drive shaft! The front half being the intermedaite shaft, and the rear half being the rear shaft. I put everything in neutral, turned the short shaft so the yokes were in the same position as the rear shaft yokes, and I couldn't believe it! No more chatter! Actually, the U-joints are out of phase and this causes the slip joints to bind up and suddenly release over and over while under the pressure of accelerating from a stop( that's the simple explanation ). This explained why the degree of chatter would change after 4wheeling in low range. When shifting to low range, the trans case goes through neutral and the short shaft can go out of phase with the rear. Now, when I'm done 4wheeling, I stop and re-align the shafts, and go shudder free. When I mentioned my success to a 40 year Dodge mechanic I knew, he just grinned, and told me a story about how the dealer he once worked for in the early 60's had changed the clutch assy, the transmission, all the gears in the trans case, and the drive shafts in a customers new Power Wagon while trying to eliminate the chatter before they finally found 'the cure'. Asked him why he hadn't told me before, and he just grinned some more. Wanted to see how long it would take me to figure it out! 10 yrs!!??
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SUDDEN OIL PRESSURE LOSS
If you suddenly lose pressure in a big block, there are some less obvious things to look for. The most obvious is the hex end twisted off the pump drive shaft. But why did it break? Some times a small piece of the stock type nylon timing gear or some other little piece of crud will somehow find its way through the pickup screen and momentarily jam the pump just long enough to twist the shaft. Then there are times when the drive shaft doesn't break, and the gear in the pump that is press fitted on the imput shaft will spin on the shaft. It may feel tight, but when it tries to pump some pressure, the shaft will spin freely. And then there are the times when you replace the drive shaft, the pump seems O.K., but still no, or low oil pressure! Check the pressure relief plunger and spring. Some times that little piece of crud will pass through the pump and jam the plunger partially open.
There are times when the pickup tube in the pan will crack or break off where it threads into the block. Usually because someone gave it 'just one more turn' past snug and stressed it enough to eventually break from vibration. Use the correct thread sealer on the new one and don't overtighten it.
AS FOR OIL PUMPS AND OIL PRESSURES
The general rule of thumb for oil pressure is: 10 lbs. for every 1000 rpm. Forget the high pressure pump or the Hemi pump relief spring unless you're turning some serious high rpm. We're talking close to 100 psi cold pressure which can destroy some oil filters. If you need a high pressure pump to get decent oil pressure, you have bigger problems elsewhere.
For a stock engine in good shape, a stock pump is fine. For a modified one, or one that 'works for a living', go with a high volume pump and use the oil pressure rule. The pressure relief spring can be shimed with thin washers to adjust.
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COLD WEATHER AND MODIFIED ENGINES
One way to get a 'built' engine with headers to warm up and run smoother in the winter, is to take off the nice chrome air cleaner and use a stock 'heated' unit that fits your carb. Run the heat tube (or tubes) down to the 2 center header tubes and secure it in place so warm air is drawn in. Stock cardboard like tubes don't work well, but parts stores should have aluminum type replacement heat tubes. Also, some header manufactuers make kit to do this. Some 60's & 70's Mopars had a nice big double snorkle air cleaner that won't restrict the air flow to that big carb. I run a double snorkle with 2 heat tubes, and also use a 2 1/2" heat riser valve from a big block chevy between the collector flange and exhaust pipe on my Hooker headers. The collectors are 2 1/2" and the bolt pattern is the same, and I unhook the spring and wire the valve open when warm weather returns. Of course an engine heater that heats the cooling system is a must for the really cold stuff. Forget the dipstick type oil heaters.
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