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Update 30 - 8/11/01
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We are enjoying a beautiful evening at Lake McDonald Lodge, just west of Logan Pass - the Continental Divide.
We continued riding west, following US 2 across the huge prairie lands of eastern Montana. Traveling along we tried to imagine crossing this land in a covered wagon, making about 5 miles per day, never sure what lay over the next rise...harsh weather, wild animals, Indians, or who knows what else. Our ride will never approach the dangers and hardships the early settlers faced here.
Following US 2 is a trip back to the early days of motor car travel. Along the way we passed many old motels and gas stations, closed long ago by the ability to travel further distances and construction of the Interstate Highway System. Most of the towns are not growing and it seems that we are loosing a way of life to the fast lane.
Reaching Glasgow, Montana our route left the Missouri River and began following the winding Milk River, named so by Meriwether Lewis due to the color of the water. After passing through the Fort Peck and Fort Belknap Indian Reservations we reached Harvre. The weather forecast for the next couple of days was for violent thunderstorms, with torrents of rain and high winds. Facing the decision to spend the time in a motel or risk getting caught in the open range, we decided to take Amtrak "up the line" to East Glacier which would put us west of the severe weather. As has happened time and time again, the da Vinci served us well for the train ride. We uncoupled the front section, released the cable disconnects and in about 15 minutes had the bike and most of our gear in two bike boxes. The train was a few minutes late, but soon we were traveling along, watching the sky grow darker as the clouds thickened and the wind blew harder. In less than 3 hours we were in East Glacier under blue skies and calm winds.
Not having plans or a lot of information on a place to stay that evening, we asked the Amtrak folks for a little help. They directed us to Bison Creek Ranch. Les, the owner came to town in his pickup and drove us 2 miles to our cottage. We got to bed at a reasonable hour, thankful that we could wait until the morning to reassemble the bike and gear.
The next morning we were served a great breakfast at the Ranch, which was originally built for railroad repairmen, or "gandy dancer cabins." The cabins have been updated with electricity and full bathrooms, but still retain their charm.
Our intent was to take route 49 north to highway 89 and rejoin the bike route at St. Mary. Les and his wife Edna advised us that there was a much better, but longer route. They suggested we ride east on US2 to Browning and then ride little used Duck Lake Road to meet highway 89 near Babb at the north end of Lower Lake St. Mary. We are usually very skeptical of route advice from non-cyclists, but decided to take a chance. The route turned out to be wonderful, with vistas of Glacier National Park to the west and the wide open prairie to the east. Along the way we marveled at Triple Divide Mountain, where water begins its long journey to the Pacific, Atlantic or Hudson Bay, depending on which face of the mountain it falls on.
Reaching St. Mary we spent an extra day, giving us time to take a boat cruise on the lake and enjoy the beauty of Glacier National Park. This is an inspiring place that many writers, artists and photographers have dedicated their lives to capturing. That's easy to understand in this place of great beauty.
Today we conquered Logan Pass. Maybe it was the many miles across the seemingly never ending prairie that made reaching the Continental Divide so important to us, or it was knowing that from the top of the pass, we would be in a general descent to home. We woke up early and attacked the climb, reaching the summit at 6680 feet an hour sooner than planned. We spent extra time on the top, meeting a couple on a tandem touring eastbound and a young Japanese man who left home last fall and rode across Asia and Europe, flew to New York and when he reaches Seattle will fly home, completing a round the world ride in about one year.
The descent on the west side yielded scenery so beautiful that we stopped to promise each other we would be back. Reaching historic and beautiful Lake McDonald Lodge we stopped to get a cold drink before heading on to the campground for the evening. A couple from Texas that we chatted with while on top of the pass stopped and gave us keys to their room. They decided to leave a day early and the room was already paid for. We are still in awe of the kindness people continue to show us wherever we travel.
George and Sharon Miner
Vancouver Bicycle Club, Vancouver, Washington
2000 da Vinci Global Venture towing Bob Trailer
Free as the Wind - Our one year self-supported tandem tour of the USA, Mexico and Canada
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